Rome Wasn’t Built in a Day (and I Still Haven’t Finished Seeing It)

Turn any corner and you’ll trip over something ancient. A column propping up a café, a Roman wall hiding behind a pharmacy, a fountain older than most countries’ constitutions. The locals stroll past it all with a coffee in hand and a shrug. After nearly three thousand years, I suppose the scenery stops being a surprise.

For visitors, it’s the opposite. We gasp constantly. That’s the deal with Rome.

Legend puts the founding in 753 BC, when Romulus, raised alongside his twin brother Remus by a she-wolf, founded the city. Rome has been dramatic ever since. Here’s how I’d tackle a first visit without losing my mind, my feet or my wallet.

Start with the big one

The Colosseum opened in AD 80 and could seat tens of thousands. Step inside and the roar of the crowd isn’t hard to imagine. I’d book a timed slot ahead and leave the rest of the morning for the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. The standard 24-hour combined ticket covers all three. Bring a hat and water. You’ll find the shade has its own admirers. Colosseum Archaeological Park

Look up at the Pantheon

The Pantheon you see today dates to Hadrian’s reign. Nearly two thousand years on, its unreinforced concrete dome is still doing its job, which is more than I can say for my DIY projects. Stand under the open oculus and, if the sun’s out, watch the light move across the interior. The Pantheon is ticketed, so check the current price and opening hours before you go. Official Pantheon visitor information

Cross into another country

You can walk into St Peter’s Square from Rome. Visiting the basilica and visiting the Vatican Museums are two separate stops. The Sistine Chapel is part of the museums visit. Michelangelo painted its ceiling between 1508 and 1512, working high up on scaffolding. My neck aches just looking at it from the floor.

I’d book the museums ahead, cover my shoulders and knees, and give the basilica its own time for the security line. Vatican Museums

Toss a coin, skip the steps

Throw a coin over your left shoulder at the Trevi Fountain and legend promises you’ll come back. The coins go to charity. The square remains free to visit, while access to the area closest to the basin carries a €2 charge during ticketed hours for most visitors. Trevi Fountain access information

Then stroll to the Spanish Steps and admire them from the side. Sitting on the steps can earn you a fine, and I can think of better ways to spend the money. Gelato, for one.

Eat like a Roman

I’d make time for carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana and supplì, the fried rice balls with a molten mozzarella heart. For a quick lunch, look for pizza al taglio. Point at the slab you want, show how big a piece you’re after, and they’ll cut and weigh it. My hand gestures tend to get more generous when I’m hungry.

• Coffee at the bar. It often costs less than sitting at a table. A cappuccino is traditionally a morning drink.
• Check the menu for extras. Look for any listed service or bread charges before ordering.
• Carry a refillable bottle. Rome’s public drinking fountains are called nasoni.
• Gelato. I tend to pass on the neon mountains. A muted pistachio is where I’d start.

Wander after dark

I’d cross the Tiber for an evening in Trastevere. The alleys narrow, the squares fill up, and the smell of garlic has a way of changing your dinner plans. Order an aperitivo and give yourself time to take a wrong turn. Wear shoes that can handle the cobblestones. Rome has had centuries to smooth them out and apparently sees no urgency.

Where I’d stay on a first visit

Look near the Pantheon if you want an easy walk back after dinner in the historic centre. Trastevere makes sense if you want evenings on that side of the river. Check the walk from your nearest useful stop with luggage in mind. A charming cobbled lane feels different when it’s your suitcase doing the talking.

Arriving by ship?

Civitavecchia is Rome’s cruise port. The train can work well, but the ride is only one part of the journey. Allow time to get from the berth to Civitavecchia station and from your Rome station to your first stop. For a port call, work back from all-aboard time before booking an attraction. Check Trenitalia schedules

If you’re staying on after a cruise, here’s the more personal side of that trip in Rome After Sign-Off: No Schedule, Just Us.

Leave something for next time

I’d pick one big sight for the morning, leave time for lunch, and see where my feet take me after that. There’s always another layer. And if you’ve thrown your coin in, you’ve already made arrangements to come back.