Bangkok: The City You Smell Before You See

Before you start

From Suvarnabhumi, the Airport Rail Link takes about half an hour to Phaya Thai. Allow extra time for the onward trip to your hotel. Suvarnabhumi transport options

Here’s how I’d spend a first full day. I’d keep the river morning and Chinatown dinner, then choose how much else to fit in once the heat has had its say.

Dawn · Lizards and lunges

Start early in Lumphini Park. There are people doing tai chi under the trees, joggers on the paths, and water monitors by the lake looking as if they’ve already done a lap and are waiting for the rest of us to catch up. Give them room and enjoy a quiet start while you can.

Morning · Gold on the river

Take a Chao Phraya Express Boat and let the breeze do its work. Temple spires poke above the roofs, longtail boats snarl by, and the river smells of silt and frying dough. Check the boat’s stops before boarding and aim for Tha Chang for the Grand Palace.

At the Grand Palace, begun in 1782, it takes a moment for your eyes to decide where to look. Inside Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha sits high on its altar and stands only about 66 centimetres tall. Cover your shoulders and legs, and if somebody outside insists the palace is closed, check with staff at the entrance before accepting a detour. Grand Palace visitor information

Walk south to Wat Pho. Its reclining Buddha is about 46 metres long, and the mother-of-pearl soles show 108 auspicious symbols. Slip off your shoes before entering the hall. That steady clink is people dropping coins into bowls. If your legs have started to lodge a complaint, Wat Pho is also known for its traditional massage school.

Then take the cross-river ferry from Tha Tien to Wat Arun. Look closely at the porcelain fragments on the tower. The steps are steep, so check what’s open and climb only if you’re comfortable. You can admire the detail from below. Wat Arun visitor information

Midday · Silk, shade and stillness

By noon the heat can feel like a wall. I’d take a lunch break and head to the Jim Thompson House, a cluster of teak houses and gardens tucked down a lane. Thompson helped revive the Thai silk trade and disappeared in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. The house is still there, and so is the mystery. A guided tour takes you through the main house. Jim Thompson House visitor information

On a weekend, Chatuchak Market is an alternative if shopping is high on your list. I’d give it a separate morning if I had one. A market that size deserves more than the hour you have left between temples and dinner.

Afternoon · Marigolds and incense

At the Erawan Shrine near Ratchaprasong, the traffic keeps going while worshippers leave garlands and incense by the four-faced figure. You may see traditional dancers performing as an offering. Stand back a little and take it in without getting in anyone’s way.

Evening · Neon, wok smoke and roast duck

Yaowarat Road in Chinatown wakes up with a roar. Neon signs blaze red and gold. Woks spit, grills crackle and roast duck hangs glistening in windows. The smell of charcoal and garlic is almost solid. I’d pick a stall where things are moving quickly and see what’s coming off the wok.

If you’re looking for Jay Fai’s crab omelette, treat it as a separate stop near the old town. For this evening I’d stay on Yaowarat and finish with mango sticky rice. And if someone asks how spicy you want dinner, here’s what happened when I said “medium”.

If you fancy noodles, a plate of pad Thai is an easy place to start. Give the lime a squeeze, then decide how brave you’re feeling about the chili. There’s no need to settle that question all at once.

Night · The city from above

For a last look, head to a rooftop bar around Pathum Wan or ask at your hotel for somewhere near your base. Order something cold and watch the traffic turn into ribbons of red and white. The noise comes up as a murmur. The air has cooled just enough to breathe.

If you’re visiting for Loy Krathong, check the dates for your year. It follows the full moon of the twelfth Thai lunar month, usually in November. Look for a designated public celebration where you can watch the little candlelit baskets drift away across the water.

Three Bangkok detours I’d make time for

Pick whichever suits your day. I’d happily trade an hour of rushing for any one of these.

• Follow the murals through Talat Noi. Start around Soi Charoen Krung 22, then wander the lanes toward Chinatown. I’d do this before dinner on Yaowarat, while there’s still enough light to see what’s painted on the walls. Talat Noi and Chinatown
• See where the marigolds come from. Swap the afternoon mall stop for Pak Khlong Talat, Bangkok’s flower market. After seeing a few garlands at a shrine, it’s something else to see flowers by the crate. Give the people moving those crates first dibs on the pavement. Pak Khlong Talat walking route
• Trade the shopping crowds for a canal-side art stop. Head to Baan Silapin, the Artist’s House on Khlong Bang Luang, for a wooden house by the water and a slower stretch of Bangkok. I’d swap this for the Jim Thompson House if I wanted more time on the Thonburi side. If you’re going specifically for puppetry, confirm there’s a performance before setting out. Baan Silapin visitor information

Where I’d stay for this day

I’d look near the river if temples and boat rides are the priority, or around Siam if I wanted an easy ride back after dinner. Check the walk to a pier or station before booking.