Free Spirit Travel · Seoul
Seoul, Honestly: Palaces, Pork Belly and a Picnic by the Han
One thing you really want to see each day. Then leave room for whatever smells good on the way there.
First impressions of Seoul
What gets me about Seoul is how much can happen on one street without anybody seeming particularly put out. Scooters buzz past, traffic keeps moving, and somewhere down an alley pork belly is crackling on a grill. I haven’t even turned into the alley yet, and already I’m prepared to reconsider dinner.
A palace first, then see where your feet take you
I’d start at Gyeongbokgung. The mountain backdrop does half the work, and the courtyards give you room to slow down before you’ve even worked out which gate you came in through.
If you fancy wearing a hanbok, you can rent one nearby. The palace offers free admission to visitors wearing qualifying traditional dress. I’d give myself enough time to walk around in it. An outfit like that deserves more than a quick photograph and a hurried change back into jeans. Check palace opening days and dress guidelines.
Afterwards, I’d pick either Insadong or the streets around Anguk for lunch and a wander. If the palace has already taken most of the morning, all the better.
A mung-bean pancake and a braai I don’t have to run
At Gwangjang Market, I’d start with bindaetteok, a mung-bean pancake fried until the edges go crisp. “Mung-bean pancake” is a description that does the thing absolutely no favours. Look at what’s coming off the griddle and make your decision from there.
Then there’s Korean barbecue. To a South African, the appeal is immediate. There’s a grill in the middle of the table, everybody has an opinion about what should go on it, and somebody usually knows when to turn the meat. On this occasion, I’m perfectly happy for that somebody to be somebody else.
For a different sort of dinner, I’d take fried chicken to Yeouido Hangang Park and stay until the lights come on across the river. Give that evening a bit of time. You’ve already spent enough of the trip being told when the next train leaves.
Where I’d stay in Seoul
For a first visit, I’d compare Myeongdong for a central base with Insadong and Anguk if palaces and older streets are more your speed. I’d choose Hongdae if I wanted dinner and a lively evening close to the hotel. Gangnam makes more sense when the places you’ve come to see are mostly south of the river.
Before booking, look up the walk from the station exit to the hotel. That last stretch always seems longer when the suitcase has developed a personality.
Where should I stay in Seoul?
Pick up to two priorities and compare three neighborhoods before you book.
How I’d spend three days
- Day one around the old centre. Start at Gyeongbokgung and leave the afternoon for Insadong or Anguk. Go to Gwangjang Market hungry.
- Day two on either side of the Han. Give Hongdae the afternoon, then cross to Yeouido for a riverside picnic. If you’re enjoying Hongdae by dinner, stay there and save the river for another evening.
- Day three is the one I’d leave open. Choose Bukhansan for a hike or book a DMZ outing for the history of the divided peninsula. Give either outing room of its own. Check DMZ itineraries, identification and access.
At Bukhansan I’d choose the trail for the legs I’ve actually brought. There’s always somebody on a mountain who makes you wonder if you’ve been walking uphill incorrectly your whole life.
Getting around Seoul
I’d start with a T-money card for local buses and the subway. Convenience stores are a good place to look for one. When planning a journey, check the station exit as well as the line. The right station and the wrong exit can still leave you standing across a very impressive road from lunch. Seoul bus and transit card information.
From Incheon Airport, look at the AREX airport railroad if Seoul Station is useful for your hotel. The express train runs nonstop and has a separate ticket. An airport bus may suit you better if it stops nearer your hotel. After a long flight, I’d count the number of times I have to move the suitcase before worrying about which option looks quicker on paper. Compare airport transfers.
When I’d go back
I’d pick autumn. A palace courtyard with the maples turning is a fair argument for booking the trip. Spring is tempting for blossoms and river picnics, though I’d leave some flexibility if the blossoms are the point of the visit. In winter, I’d build in more indoor stops and give a jjimjilbang, a Korean bathhouse and sauna, a go. A heated floor sounds like a perfectly respectable afternoon to me.
If you do get to the Han with fried chicken and nowhere else you need to be, think of me. Preferably after you’ve secured the last piece.
Seoul visitor FAQs
How many days do I need for a first visit?
I’d start with three full days. A fourth lets you fit in both the mountain and the river without asking your legs to negotiate.
Do I need to hire a car in Seoul?
I’d use trains and buses for this itinerary. For a late return with several changes, I’d consider a taxi and keep the hotel address handy.
Does wearing a hanbok get me into Gyeongbokgung for free?
Yes, if it meets the palace’s hanbok guidelines. Check the official rules and opening days before hiring one.
What would you book first?
I’d settle on the neighbourhood and airport transfer first. If the DMZ is a priority, book that before filling the rest of the itinerary.
Ready to plan your Seoul trip?
Enter Seoul and your travel dates to compare fares, or go straight to choosing a neighbourhood.