Rob’s Blog · Southeast Asia
Singapore: The City That Takes Lunch Very Seriously
By Rob Wheatley
“Have you eaten?” is one of my favourite questions in Singapore. I’ve learned to let my stomach navigate, and it has yet to let me down.
A plan with room for lunch
Singapore has skyscrapers, giant glowing trees, temples and a zoo you visit after dark. And somehow, by half past eleven, I’m still thinking about lunch.
For a first visit, I’d give Marina Bay and Gardens by the Bay a day, then spend the next day eating my way between neighborhoods. If you like structure, pick one main stop for each half of the day and book any timed tickets. If you have room to wander, leave lunch open. The queue at a hawker stall may make that decision for you.
Touchdown · The waterfall at the airport
At Jewel Changi Airport, a 40-metre waterfall drops through the middle of a glass-domed garden. I’ve caught myself standing there with my mouth open and my luggage forgotten. If you’re connecting, Jewel is in the public area. Check whether you can clear immigration and still have enough time to get back through departures. Plan a visit to Jewel
Outside, the humidity hits like the door of a sauna. I’d pack light clothes, a small umbrella and a layer for the air conditioning. Singapore gives you a reason to use all three.
Day one · Kaya toast and Marina Bay
I’d start with kaya toast, soft-boiled eggs and kopi. Crack the eggs into a saucer, add soy sauce and white pepper, and dunk the toast. Kopi O is black coffee with sugar, kopi C comes with evaporated milk, and peng means iced. I’d learn the one I actually want before attempting the whole menu.
Then head to Marina Bay for the Merlion. Half lion, half fish, entirely aware of its camera angle. Across the water is Marina Bay Sands, with its ship-shaped SkyPark. Visitors can buy tickets to the observation deck. The infinity pool is reserved for hotel guests.
Gardens that look better after dark
At Gardens by the Bay, the Supertrees rise over the lawns like something from a science-fiction film. If it’s sweltering, I’d head into the ticketed Cloud Forest for the cool air and waterfall mist.
Come back for Garden Rhapsody if you have the evening free. The light-and-music show at Supertree Grove is free, and the gardens publish the schedule. Check Garden Rhapsody times
Day two · Temples, neighborhood lanes and lunch
Start in Chinatown, where the red and gold Buddha Tooth Relic Temple is a short walk from Sri Mariamman Temple. I’d pick Little India or Kampong Glam for the afternoon. Little India has marigold garlands, bright fabrics and the smell of cumin drifting from restaurants. In Kampong Glam, look for the Sultan Mosque’s golden dome and give yourself time to wander the lanes around it.
If you want both, take the MRT between neighborhoods and keep the afternoon flexible. A second lunch has been known to interfere with a perfectly good plan.
What I’d order at a hawker centre
UNESCO recognised Singapore’s hawker culture in 2020. I’d start with Hainanese chicken rice. Silky chicken, fragrant rice and a dab of chilli and ginger make a very persuasive argument for simplicity.
If you have someone to share with, add laksa for the spicy coconut broth, char kway teow for the smoky flat noodles, or satay straight off the charcoal grill. Roti prata with curry is another excellent reason to delay whatever you were planning to do next. UNESCO’s Singapore hawker culture listing
Pick your evening
A Sling at Raffles. The Long Bar is the classic stop for a Singapore Sling. I’d go if the history and the ritual appeal to you. It’s touristy, and it’s delightful.
Night Safari. The nocturnal wildlife park is at Mandai, so give it an evening of its own. Book admission, check the last ride home and allow time for the tram or walking trails. Night Safari visitor information
Chilli crab. If you’d rather stay in town for dinner, order the crab and get mantou for the sauce. Roll up your sleeves. By the end of it, dignity will be the least interesting thing on the table.
Where I’d stay
I’d compare Marina Bay for the waterfront, Chinatown for food and a central base, and Bugis or Kampong Glam for evenings close to smaller streets and cafés. Check the walk to the MRT before you book.
Walking & access
Singapore’s Land Transport Authority lists barrier-free routes at every MRT station. Pick the lift exit first, then map the walk to your hotel. If you’re counting on shelter from the rain, check whether the covered route goes all the way to the door. See what to check before you book.
Where should I stay in Singapore?
Pick up to two priorities and compare three neighborhoods before you book.
A few handy tips
- Take the MRT. Supported contactless cards work on public transport. Use the same card or device to tap in and out, and check whether foreign-card fees apply. SimplyGo card guidance
- Keep a little cash. Check how a hawker stall takes payment before you order.
- Plan around the heat and rain. Walk early, save indoor stops for the hotter part of the day and give yourself room to wait out a shower.
- Read the bill. Tipping is generally optional. Check whether the restaurant has already added a service charge.
Questions about visiting Singapore
What can I see in two days in Singapore?
Give Marina Bay and Gardens by the Bay one day. On the second, start in Chinatown, have a hawker lunch and choose Little India or Kampong Glam.
Can I visit Jewel during a Changi layover?
Jewel is in the public area, so connecting passengers need to clear immigration. Check whether you can enter Singapore and leave time to get back through departures. Plan your Jewel visit.
Which parts of Gardens by the Bay cost money?
Supertree Grove and the Garden Rhapsody show are free. The Cloud Forest and other ticketed attractions have separate admission. Check the show schedule.
Can I use a foreign card on the MRT?
Supported contactless cards can work. Tap in and out with the same card or device and check whether an administrative fee applies. SimplyGo card guidance.
What would you go back to Singapore to eat?
A plate of chicken rice, a bowl of laksa or something you ordered without quite knowing what it was?