Train Travel in Europe: My Unlikely Rail Renaissance

I have to admit, trains never really turned me on.

As a child, I had a tall, skinny friend called Steven who claimed to own a model railway that filled an entire room. Later, I discovered it belonged to his dad. Such a liar.

At eight, I found this miniature world fascinating. However, by the fourth visit, I’d seen enough.

I was into planes. Not trains.

Then, at sixteen, two friends and I took an overnight train from Johannesburg to Durban. We had a four-berth compartment, which meant one spare place. Naturally, somebody filled it.

Our unexpected companion was a grumpy older gentleman with the personality of a flying brick.

So much for the party.

Instead, we relocated our festivities to a forbidden corner at the far end of the train. For two glorious hours, it worked. Then a conductor found us and brought the operation to an end.

Back in the compartment, Mr. Personality was asleep on the upper bunk. Unfortunately, he was also dribbling onto my bunk below.

That rather damp encounter did little for my enthusiasm.

In more recent years, however, I’ve enjoyed plenty of train journeys, both overnight and during the day. A dining car helps. Better still, give me a compartment for my partner and me, with our own bathroom.

Suddenly, rail travel becomes a different proposition.

Perhaps I haven’t become a railway enthusiast. Nevertheless, I have become rather interested in arriving somewhere without first spending several hours negotiating an airport.

Train travel in Europe now offers a tempting mix of city connections, overnight services and journeys you take mainly for the view. However, the useful question isn’t whether rail is fashionable. It’s whether a particular train improves your particular trip.

For example, a daytime service may deliver you close to the center of your destination. A sleeper can combine transport with a night’s accommodation. Meanwhile, a scenic train turns the journey itself into something worth making time for.

Those are three different purchases. Consequently, they deserve three different comparisons.

There is an environmental benefit to consider, too. Rail can have substantially lower emissions than flying, although the difference depends on the route, energy supply and comparison method. Check Eurostar’s published comparisons rather than applying one percentage to every train on the planet.

My advice? Begin with the experience you want. Then work out which ticket buys it.

For a first attempt, I’d choose one straightforward journey between places you already want to visit. After all, a direct train with a sensible arrival time is a gentler introduction than an itinerary requiring five changes and the sprinting ability of a gazelle.

Alternatively, try a scenic day trip before committing to a week on rails. You’ll discover whether the passing landscape delights you—or whether you begin checking your phone after the third field.

As an example, Nightjet’s sleeper categories include compartments for one, two or three people, with private shower-and-toilet options available. However, that doesn’t make every sleeper compartment en-suite.

Before booking, check the exact category, upper-bunk access, luggage space and whether the price is per person or for the whole compartment. If climbing a ladder at 2 a.m. sounds unappealing, request a suitable lower berth and confirm it.

Likewise, arrange mobility assistance with the operator before committing. A station lift doesn’t guarantee that every train doorway, corridor or sleeping compartment will work for you.

Sometimes. However, “it saves a hotel night” is only half the calculation.

Compare the total sleeper fare with the daytime journey plus the hotel you would otherwise use. Then add meals, transfers and any reservation charges.

For example, imagine a daytime ticket costs €70 and a hotel costs €140. Together, that’s €210. If a private sleeper for the same number of people costs €280, you’re paying €70 more for that particular experience. These are illustrative figures, not quoted fares.

On the other hand, the overnight option might preserve a valuable sightseeing day. That can justify the extra cost, provided you’re likely to sleep.

Also check the arrival time. Reaching a city at 6 a.m. sounds efficient until your room is unavailable until the afternoon. Therefore, plan luggage storage, breakfast and a gentle first morning.

I would avoid putting a once-in-a-lifetime tour immediately after a night when sleep is uncertain. Romance is lovely. Exhaustion is a less charming traveling companion.

A pass can be useful, particularly when you want several longer journeys or flexibility. However, it isn’t automatically the cheapest option.

For a fixed itinerary, start by pricing the actual trains on your dates. Then compare that total with the pass plus compulsory reservations and sleeper supplements.

For most US residents, Eurail is the relevant European pass family; European residents generally use Interrail. Eligibility follows residence rules, so check yours before buying.

Crucially, a pass isn’t a reservation. Some trains have limited places for passholders, and overnight accommodation costs extra. Read Eurail’s reservation guidance before assuming that a flexible pass means any train, anytime.

On a direct overnight journey, the pass travel-day rules can also matter. Therefore, check the current rule for your precise connection, especially if you change trains after midnight.

The Bernina journey appeals if you want dramatic Alpine scenery on the way toward Tirano. However, there are different ways to ride the line.

The panoramic Bernina Express and regional services share the relevant tracks, but their seating, stops and reservations differ. Consequently, compare them before paying for the famous name. Rhaetian Railway explains the alternatives, including reservation arrangements.

For a more ordinary train doing an extraordinary scenic job, look at Portugal’s Douro line toward Régua, Pinhão and Pocinho.

Rather than defaulting to the furthest endpoint, choose a stop that leaves time to enjoy the place and return comfortably. Then check CP’s current service information for timetables and replacement buses. Engineering work can change the experience considerably.

If Porto is your base, my Porto guide is a useful place to start.

The Caledonian Sleeper offers an overnight approach to Scotland, including the Fort William service from London Euston. For this kind of journey, the attraction is partly what happens after you wake up.

However, choose dates and direction with daylight in mind if scenery is the priority. Also check the room category and current timetable rather than assuming that every departure gives the same experience.

Map: © Juri Maier / Back-on-Track.eu, reproduced unmodified under its stated Creative Commons permission. Open full-resolution map in a new tab ↗ — click again there to zoom and scroll. Consult the live map and operator for current services.

1. Choose two or three places you genuinely want to visit. Then connect them sensibly rather than adding cities simply because the railway reaches them.
2. Price the key journeys for your actual dates. Compare operator tickets with a suitable pass, including reservations and accommodation.
3. Secure the hard-to-replace leg first. For example, that might be a private sleeper or a particular scenic departure.
4. Leave breathing room around connections. In particular, check whether tickets form a through journey or separate contracts, and what happens if the first train is late.
5. Check the exact stations and arrival plan. Large cities can have several terminals. Also allow time for luggage storage or hotel check-in.
6. Pack for carrying, lifting and a night in a small space. Keep documents, overnight essentials, a charger and earplugs within reach.
7. Recheck service notices before departure. Finally, save tickets offline and know where to seek help if the plan changes.

For the wider planning habits, see my Travel Logistics & Transit guide. Meanwhile, Slow Travel explains how fewer moves can make the whole trip more enjoyable.

Steven can keep the room full of miniature track. These days, however, I understand the appeal of the real thing.

A good train journey gives you time to notice the country between the places you’ve booked. Sometimes, it also gives you a decent meal and a very pleasant seat.

So choose the route with care. Then choose the compartment with even more care.

And if there’s a spare berth above you, perhaps have a quiet word about sleeping arrangements.

Was it a spectacular view, a wonderful sleeper—or a journey you’d rather forget? Share your story in the comments. As you can see, I’ve already supplied the damp opening chapter.