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Free Spirit Travel · Macau

Macau: A Portuguese Postcard Wearing Casino Neon

One day for the old streets and the extravagant bits. An extra night if, like me, you’d rather see what happens when the day-trippers go home.

Grand Lisboa rises over residential buildings on the Macau Peninsula
The Grand Lisboa above the streets of the Macau Peninsula.

Macau in two turns

Macau is the only place I know where I can lose my bearings and my chips in the same afternoon.

Turn one corner and I’m in a square that could be in Lisbon, with wavy paving and pastel buildings. A little later, there’s a gondola in a shopping mall under a sky somebody has painted. I can just about get my head around the gondola. It’s the decision to supply it with its own weather that gets me.

Portuguese traders settled here in the 16th century, and Macau remained under Portuguese administration until 1999. That history is easier to take in at street level, where a church façade or a name on a street sign can change the feel of a whole block.

Give the old town the morning

Black-and-white wave paving and pastel buildings at Senado Square
Wave-pattern paving in the historic centre.

I’d start at Senado Square. The black-and-white waves in the pavement draw your eye down, which is useful when nearly everything else in Macau wants you to look up. From there, take the lanes to the Ruins of St. Paul’s and give the façade a proper look. There’s a lot going on for a building that has lost most of its walls.

Then head towards A-Ma Temple. The courtyards and shrines rise among boulders near the old harbour. Keep your voice low and give worshippers room. The square, ruins and temple all form part of the UNESCO-listed Historic Centre of Macao.

For lunch, my pick is African chicken, a Macanese dish with a rich, spiced sauce. Give yourself time to sit down for it. The rest of the day can wait.

Macanese African chicken with a spiced sauce
African chicken, a Macanese dish.

Where I’d put my suitcase

A narrow Macau street with the Grand Lisboa beyond
A side street on the Macau Peninsula.

For a short visit I’d stay on the peninsula near Senado Square. That gives you the old streets on your doorstep. If I wanted quieter lanes, I’d look at Taipa Village. For a show or a resort stay, Cotai makes the most sense.

Consider Coloane if you want a slower trip and don’t mind travelling farther for the main sights. Before booking, check the route back from wherever you’re likely to spend the evening. A hotel that looks close on a map may still involve a trip across the water.

Where should I stay in Macau?

Pick up to two priorities and compare three neighborhoods before you book.

Taipa before the neon

Pedestrians on Rua do Cunha in Taipa Village
Rua do Cunha in Taipa Village.

For the afternoon, I’d choose between Guia Hill on the peninsula and a wander around Taipa Village. Guia is for a view over the city. Taipa is where I’d go if I’d had enough of giving myself things to tick off.

After dark, Cotai supplies more spectacle than anyone could reasonably need. I’d walk through the Venetian to see how far someone is willing to take the idea of an indoor canal. If you’d rather see the real skyline, save Macau Tower for a clear evening. The bungee jump can carry on perfectly well without me.

With an extra day, give Coloane time of its own. Walk the village and consider Hac Sa if you want to see another side of the coast.

Planning a wider trip? Explore the East Asia destination guide.

Getting there and getting around

From Hong Kong, compare the ferry with the bridge shuttle. Check both ends of the journey before booking. The shuttle runs between border ports, so factor in the connections on either side. If you’re staying around Taipa or Cotai, compare ferry arrivals at Taipa with those on the peninsula.

Bring your passport and check entry requirements for your passport before leaving Hong Kong. For a day trip, check the return service before deciding how long you can stay out.

Walk the historic centre in clusters and use a bus or taxi for longer hops. The light rail is worth a look for Taipa and Cotai, and resort shuttles can help if their route suits you. I’d carry some patacas for small purchases. Hong Kong dollars are widely accepted, although change may come back in patacas.

Macau visitor FAQs

Is Macau worth a day trip from Hong Kong?

Yes. I’d put the historic centre first, then choose Taipa or Cotai if time allows. Stay overnight if you want a slower afternoon or an evening view.

Where should I start on a first visit?

Start at Senado Square and walk to St. Paul’s. If you’re still enjoying the old streets, carry on towards A-Ma Temple.

Should I take the ferry or the bridge shuttle?

Compare the whole journey from your Hong Kong hotel to your first stop in Macau. A convenient terminal can save you more time than a quicker crossing.

Can I enjoy Cotai without gambling?

Yes. Go for the scale of the resorts, the public areas or a show. I’d still leave enough time for the old town.

Would you go back?

Your experience may be exactly what another traveller needs to hear.